After the intensity of Varanasi, our next destination was the serene region of McLeod Ganj, nestled near Dharamshala in the state of Himachal Pradesh. We were eager to escape the sweltering heat of the plains and spend some time exploring the cool, picturesque mountains in the region.

Note that this post is a continuation of a larger adventure that I have been writing about on this blog. If you’re just joining in, you can catch up on my most recent post about our previous stop of Varanasi here.

Day 22: Transition Day Through Delhi

As mentioned in my previous post, our original plan included a stop in Rishikesh after Varanasi. However, logistical challenges, including a collapsed bridge in Rishikesh and complicated travel routes led us to change our itinerary. We decided to skip Rishikesh and head directly to McLeod Ganj instead.

Reaching McLeod Ganj turned out to be the most challenging part of our Indian travels in terms of accessibility. We opted for flights to save time and avoid the complexities of land travel, even though it meant a higher expense. As backpackers now in our 30s, we both agreed that we have found ourselves doing this more as we travel – some travel headaches just aren’t worth the money savings to us anymore.

Our journey began with an afternoon flight from Varanasi to Delhi, a quick hour-long flight. The moment we stepped out of the Delhi airport, we were greeted by a familiar cacophony of honking horns, a sound we had come to associate with India. We took the train into the city centre and, after navigating the bustling station, finally reached our accommodation for the night.

This was more of a transitional day for us, so we kept things low-key. Knowing we’d return to Delhi later with my friend Zoe, we decided to save sightseeing for then. That evening, we ventured out for a delicious Punjabi Thali meal, where the naan, perfectly roasted in a hot oven, stole the show.

Day 23: Delhi to Upper Bhagsu

The next morning, we set out early for our flight to Dharamshala, the nearest city and airport to McLeod Ganj. From there, it was another two hours by taxi up winding roads to the hill station town. The drive was nerve-wracking at times, especially when our driver took some off-road shortcuts, but we arrived safely at our hotel.

We had extra time in the region due to our change in plans, so we decided to spend our first few days in Upper Bhagsu, a quaint village about 2 kilometers from McLeod Ganj. Upper Bhagsu is a charming place filled with artisanal shops, yoga studios, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Our afternoon was spent exploring the village and walking to the Bhagsu waterfall. In contrast to the peaceful Upper Bhagsu, Lower Bhagsu was packed with domestic tourists, creating a completely different atmosphere. We enjoyed people watching as well as observing the various areas of the town with the vastly different collections of people in each part.

Day 24: Bhagsu to Naddi, Hiking Through the Hills

After a delightful breakfast at a local café, we set off on a walk through the hills to the villages of Dharamkot and Naddi. The walk was lovely, with plenty of time to enjoy the views and browse the charming shops along the way.

One unique aspect of the McLeod Ganj area is the presence of monks living in the various towns. It was heartwarming to see them going about their daily routines as we explored. We also stumbled upon a beautiful forested area draped in prayer flags, which added to the spiritual ambiance of the region.

Once we reached Naddi, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a café that overlooked the surrounding mountains. After lunch, we browsed some shops, and then made our way back to Bhagsu, enjoying every step being back in nature in considerably cooler temperatures than we had been experiencing in the cities.

Day 25: Trek up Triund

On Day 25, we woke up early, left our belongings at the hotel, and began our trek to the Triund hill station.

We had considered staying overnight at the top of the mountain, but ultimately decided to complete the trek in one morning. There are two main routes to the top, and we chose to start in Bhagsu and descend the path that passes through the town of Dharamkot.

The hike was challenging but incredibly scenic. After about an hour and a half of steep climbing, we reached a plateau with stunning views of the hill stations and surrounding mountains. This plateau was also home to some local bovine wildlife.

An hour later, we arrived at Triund. We took a well-deserved break at one of the hilltop cafés, enjoying the breathtaking scenery as well as some Nutella toast.

Our descent was less scenic, as clouds began to roll in, but the route was more gradual and less steep, making for a pleasant walk down. We even found a shortcut that led us directly back to our hotel and backpacks in Bhagsu.

Later that day, we walked our bags 2 kilometers to our next hotel in McLeod Ganj due to the heavy traffic. Unfortunately, the small roads and large number of domestic tourists made traffic a constant issue, adding stress to what should have been peaceful walks around town. Though extremely tired from our hike and additional walk, we were excited to move into McLeod Ganj to see what it was all about!

Our dinner that evening was one of our highlights in McLeod Ganj, as we shared a Tibetan Thali. This was very exciting as this sharing platter provided us with opportunities to see and try new Tibetan foods that we had never heard of. The food was mostly vegetarian, generally a little spicy, and overall, very delicious!

Day 26 and 27: Exploring McLeod Ganj and Tibetan Culture

We dedicated the next two days to exploring McLeod Ganj, with a focus on the Tibetan culture and the Dalai Lama’s influence in the area.

On Day 26, we visited the Dalai Lama Temple Complex, a beautiful and expansive site in the heart of town. It was fascinating to see where His Holiness conducts much of his work.

The following day, we walked down the hill to the Tibetan government-in-exile complex, established in 1959. We spent time exploring the various government buildings and visiting the excellent Tibet Museum. If you are in the area, I think that this complex and museum is definitely worth a visit. It was humbling to learn about the struggle and plight of the Tibetan people for the last 70 years as well as learn about Tibetan people and culture in such a detailed educational format.

On our way back to town, we took the Kora circuit, a sacred path that circles the green area around the Dalai Lama Temple Complex. The walk, surrounded by trees, prayer flags, and Buddhist statues, was peaceful and serene.

Day 27: Departing McLeod Ganj for Delhi

Before heading back to Delhi to meet up with my friend Zoe, we took an early morning walk around town, stopping at the Tibetan History Library. The library was run by a passionate man dedicated to preserving Tibetan history and culture. It was fascinating to talk with him and see his impressive book collection.

McLeod Ganj was a beautiful place, rich with Tibetan culture and spirituality. Despite the traffic issues, we thoroughly enjoyed the hiking, walking, and exploring the smaller, picturesque villages in the area, as well as experiencing Tibetan culture through our explorations of the sights and foods of the area.

Next up on our journey is our interesting adventure back to Delhi, followed by a flight to our next major stop on the trip, the northern Indian territory of Ladakh. I can’t wait to share it with you.

As always, thanks for reading!